These are the questions we answer most often standing at the end of someone's driveway. Short, straight versions below; the full service details live on our sealcoating page.
How long until I can use it?
Foot traffic in 4–8 hours, vehicles in 24–48 depending on temperature, humidity and sun. We schedule so the cure window lands as painlessly as possible — and we'll tell you the specific window for your job, not a brochure number.
How often should I sealcoat?
Every 3–5 years. Pavement with heavy traffic and full sun is closer to 3 years, while shaded, lightly used driveways may reach 5. Sealing every year adds too much material and can create a brittle film that cracks.
Can you sealcoat new asphalt?
Not yet — new asphalt needs 6–12 months for surface oils to cure out. Sealing too early traps them and leaves a soft finish that scuffs easily.
What if it rains?
Sealer needs roughly 24 hours without rain. We watch the forecast and reschedule rather than gamble because rain can streak or wash a fresh coat. Waiting for dry weather is better than redoing the work.
Does sealcoating fill cracks?
No. Sealer is a thin protective film; it can't bridge a moving crack. Real prep means hot rubberized crack filling first, then sealer over the top. Any bid that doesn't mention crack prep isn't comparable to one that does.
Why did my neighbor's sealcoat job turn gray in a year?
The usual causes are thinned material, one light coat, poor preparation or bad weather. With a clean surface, primed oil spots, filled cracks, quality sealer and two coats in wear areas, the deep black finish should hold for years, not months.
Is it worth it on an old, cracked driveway?
Honest answer: sometimes no. If the surface is structurally failing, sealer only improves the appearance for a short time, and we'll tell you so. The money belongs in repair first. Our guide to sealcoating vs. repaving explains the difference.